Plump tart cherry, rose bush, strawberry glaze. Spiced blackberry, roasted tomato skin, dried blueberry. Thorny bramble and bougainvillea, cardamom and orange pekoe tea. A soft and round yet tart and juicy fruit profile erupts with red plum, cranberry sauce, and mixed berry pie filling that remains quite fresh despite considerable concentration. A wild herbaceous streak emerges spewing oregano, basil, and briar complemented by beautifully interesting floral funk. Hot asphalt and scorched earth burn their way into frame but are quelled peacefully by vanilla, clove, and a considerable dousing of oak and spice. Ripe and full bodied with mild tannin and acidity; distinctly Californian in style with visible old world roots. This 2016 Sonoma Valley Sangiovese by VJB Cellars is an intriguing and inviting Italian red.

California owes much of its early winemaking tradition to Italian immigrants. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries a significant number of these hard working farmers found themselves occupying the countryside of Sonoma County and many chose to plant and grow wine grapes native to their homeland. This bottling, crafted by VJB Cellars using Sangiovese grown in the Sonoma Valley, provides an interesting glimpse into the past and present of the Sonoma wine trade. While unquestionably forward and modern in style this wine still exhibits distinct rusticity, herbaceousness, and earthy character that defines Italian wines for many. Although production styles in California have evolved significantly over the last century many grape varieties like Sangiovese have persevered and now serve as a reflection of ages past. This interesting and enjoyable bottle is a great way to turn back the clock and enjoy the rich history of Italian influence on Californian wine.