Mulberry mash, charcoal, mission fig. Stewed black cherry, poppy seed filling, chopped date. Burning sage and garigue, cocoa and toasted coconut. Mouth fillingly rich, deep, savory, and dense - but not syrupy or thick thanks to surprisingly high acidity for a wine of this magnitude. Sweet meaty smoke billows out from charred dry rub crusted tri-tip as the smell of grandma's fresh European pastries pours out the kitchen window and towards the grill. This 2014 Estate Reserve Syrah by Rideau Vineyard is layer upon layer of intellectual opulence.

Pinot Noir is the undisputed king of black grapes in Santa Barbara County, but Syrah would probably be considered its closest heir to the throne. It is grown in almost every microclimate of the region - from Santa Rita Hills to Happy Canyon to Santa Maria - and performs quite well in each zone. This Syrah, produced by Rideau Vineyard, is grown smack dab in the center of the county in the Los Olivos District. Los Olivos possesses a relatively moderate climate with warm days and cool nights perfect for balancing the varietal's propensity towards brawn or bite. While this wine definitely leans to lushness it avoids any inkling of jam or flab. It's just pure provacative pleasure in a smokey meaty fruit-laden package.