2018 “G17” Syrah - Morgan Winery
Tart blackberry, fragrant sage, fresh mixed currants. Wild huckleberry, cracked black pepper, spiced dark cherry. Crunchy boysenberry, cranberry, and black licorice erupt with incredible energy and tension yet are immediately outshined by fresh thyme, rosemary, and a complex medley of wild herbs. Cardamon, anise, and tarragon continue the ambrosially spiced and herbal attack aided by an additional savory jolt of black olive, lavender leaf, and tree bark. A waft of young violet complements nice floral lift before oyster shell, crushed gravel, and rock salt leave a deliciously earthy impression. Delightfully peppery, raw, and feral; boasting an incredibly layered and multidimensional profile that is only just barely beginning to reveal its true depth. Medium plus in body/tannin/acidity with palpable energy and structure that implies it is still many years from its peak. This 2018 "G17" Syrah by Morgan Winery is an outstanding and unique cool climate red from the Santa Lucia Highlands.
While it is primarily known as a source for high quality Pinot Noir, the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation in Monterey County it is also home to a growing concentration of absolutely incredible Syrah. This bottling, crafted by Morgan Winery using mostly Syrah plus a pinch of Grenache and Tempranillo, is a terrifically interesting example of the complex subtleties possible in California's cool yet sunny Central Coast. Contrary to many new world Syrahs this wine is dominated largely by its pronounced savory and herbal character rather than its fruit, yet it still manages to express wonderfully juicy freshness. It is well balanced and quite restrained with excellent tartness and drive. This is an extremely well executed and food friendly offering that will stand up to even the most intricately flavored dishes.