Succulent guava, island hibiscus, juicy mango. Caramelized pineapple, butterscotch, strawberry lemonade slush. Plumeria and banana leaf,  crushed clove and coconut husk. Blushing tropical fruit sings with aromatic intensity, spilling out gooey passionfruit and lush papaya along with canned peach and key lime. Bright floral notes mesh with palm frond and island greenery in a second level of decadent richness. A drizzle of honey and a dusting of nori complete this sunshine-filled full bodied specimen, which exhibits a pleasant slightly-oily mouthfeel often attributed to this variety. Characteristically weighty with ample acidity to maintain freshness. This 2017 Russian River Valley Viognier by Ketcham Estate Winery is a rich, ripe, and delicious Rhone-style white.

The Russian River Valley of Sonoma County is known for producing great Chardonnay, but there are many other interesting light-skinned grapes that can grow well here. This bottling, crafted by Ketcham Estate Winery using 100% Viognier sourced from a single unnamed vineyard in the RRV, is a wonderful example of what Rhone whites can do in this relatively cool-climate appellation. It is lush and somewhat unctuous, spouting fresh and juicy ripeness in every direction. While certainly fruit driven and broad this wine is well executed with nice underlying complexity. Viognier clearly matures happily during the long and dry California growing season, and this bottling makes a case that perhaps this is a grape that should have a greater presence in Sonoma County. We'd love to see more like this.