2018 Yamhill-Carlton Chardonnay - Big Table Farm
Lemon peel, oyster shell, yellow nectarine. Grapefruit pith, pastry crust, Asian pear skin. An excitingly edgy and energetic procession of Fuji apple, peach pit, and cantaloupe rind writhes with outstanding vibrancy and tension within an attack lovingly interlaced with captivating earthy notes of ocean brine and saline minerality. Hints of honeysuckle, dandelions, and wildflowers expose a thread of well integrated floral overtones juxtaposed against the faint impressions of sawdust and baled straw. Hints of nutmeg and vanilla powder reveal ever-so-delicate baking spices that play perfectly with a pleasant lightly bready quality. Beautifully expressive and outgoing on the nose while remaining powerful and intense yet nicely tart and crisp on the palate; exhibiting a terrific balance of electric fruit and surprisingly savory non-fruit flavors within a presentation that is still quite youthful and tightly-wound. Medium in body and magnificently coursing with palate-tingling acidity. This 2018 Yamhill-Carlton Chardonnay by Big Table Farm is an exciting and delightfully unique white from Oregon.
Located near the northwestern edge of Oregon's Willamette Valley between McMinnville and the Tualatin Hills, Yamhill-Carlton is an intriguing winegrowing appellation known for having soils composed primarily of ancient marine sediment. This bottling, crafted by Big Table Farm using Chardonnay sourced from within Yamhill-Carlton, brilliantly captures the infatuating earthy character imparted by this region's ocean-influenced terroir. This wine booms with a deep and driving citrus-laced fruit profile undercut with delicious salty earthiness, pretty floral charm, and just the right amount of spice. There is a wonderful nervousness to this wine that persists despite its solid concentration and palate weight, and will surely make this an interesting specimen to follow as it ages for at least another 5-10 years in bottle. Excellent.