2015 Peimonte Barbera Apapaassimento - Ricossa Antica Casa
Morello cherry preserves, blooming rose, red licorice. Tart strawberry jam, old barrel, dried goji berry. Parched earth and iron, foraged kindling and dry brush. A dense and decadent medley of raspberry jelly, dehydrated red plum, and blackberry reduction pulses with weighty intensity, generously exuding lofty and lingering perfume of notable richness and concentration. Light natural and earthy tones of broken twigs and tobacco are present yet wholly overwhelmed by succulent pomegranate-infused chocolate and other deeply saturated fruit. Perceptibly clean and modern at first impression, revealing only minor hints of rusticity with careful analysis. Tart and dry - but not bone dry - on the palate, showcasing high viscosity and a full body backed by elevated tannin and acidity. This 2015 Piemonte Barbera Appassimento by Ricossa Antica Casa is a big-fruited and delightfully unique red from Piedmont.
Although it is most notably practiced in the Corvina-based wines of Amarone della Valpolicella, the appassimento method is used to produce interesting wine all over Italy. By harvesting grapes when ripe and then laying them out for further drying the fruit is able to raisinate and concentrate its sugars, which allows for bigger and fuller flavors in the finished wine. This bottling, crafted by Ricossa Antica Casa using Barbara sourced from within Italy's Piedmont region and processed using the appassimento method, is an excellent example of the distinct character this classic technique imparts. While Barbera's typical red fruits are still present here they are expressed with amplified density and power, and the overall weight is much greater than the norm. This forward and modern style is sure to appeal to international palates and would make a great first taste of Italy for curious new world wine drinkers.