Singed lemon, struck flint, crisp yellow pear. Canned peach, blooming plumeria, grapefruit pith. A tightly wound yet sneakily aromatic fruit core led by apricot, Opal apple, and orange slice writhes with tremendous tension and angst as highly reductive hints of matchstick and smoke overlay the somewhat reticent and thoroughly youthful display. Notes of citrus blossom and gardenias slowly emerge within wafts of lofty floral tones that gradually outmaneuver the intense reduction after a moderate decant. Impressions of raw almond, burning sage, and lightly bitter herbs lie in waiting to impart intriguing natural underpinnings before fading behind earthy tones of sandy soil and mildly saline minerality. Notably shy and reserved on the nose upon opening while remaining lean, crisp, and serious on the palate; exhibiting an unconventional and intriguing cool climate presentation of a grape often associated with being succulent, forward, and lush. Medium in body and fresh on the palate thanks to a streak of bright acidity. This 2019 "Phi" Santa Barbara County Viognier by Ampelos Cellars is a wonderfully unique and interesting white from California's Central Coast.

Most notably found in the village of Condrieu near the northern tip of France's Rhone Valley, Viognier is a highly aromatic and often unctuous white wine variety that has burgeoned in popularity in California over the last twenty years. This bottling, crafted by Ampelos Cellars using fruit sourced from two cool climate vineyards in Santa Barbara County, showcases an unconventional and intriguing take on this distinctly delicious white grape. This wine slowly unfurls its many layers after a few hours of air, eventually presenting a range of bold aromatics laden with citrus and stone fruit, tropical flowers, smoky notes, and a wonderful herbal quality. It is notably reductive and tense at this stage and should be best enjoyed after either decanting or resting for another year or two in bottle. Very fun.