2017 Roderick Ranch Pinot Noir - Handley Cellars

Brilliant deep and expressive bursts of dark cherry, underripe blackberry, cranberry compote, black currant, and orange zest lead a rich yet impressively lifted attack intricately enhanced by a diverse medley of forest tones including dried leaves, tree bark, briar, and pine cone. Notes of crushed lavender, burning incense, and potpourri proudly bolster aromatics with wafts of seductive lightly-smoky fragrances that intertwine with exotically spiced impressions of cardamom, turmeric, and celery salt. Hints of aged leather and cured meat gently contribute interesting savory tertiary character while suggestions of tilled soil, ocean fog, and saline minerality reveal decidedly coastal earthiness. Notably bold and broad-shouldered on the palate while remaining quite expansive and even ethereal at the same time; exhibiting a muscular and multidimensional yet beautifully balanced presentation that boasts intriguing ruggedness, understated concentration, and effortless depth. Medium-plus bodied with moderate tannin supported by bright acidity. This 2017 Roderick Ranch Pinot Noir by Handley Cellars is a complex and captivating red from the Anderson Valley. 

Mendocino County's Anderson Valley has now firmly established its reputation as one of California's greatest terroirs for Pinot Noir, and this recognition and fame should be largely attributed to local viticultural pioneers like Handley Cellars who planted wine grapes in this valley at a time when few understood the region could produce high-quality fruit. This bottling, crafted by Handley Cellars using Pinot Noir sourced from the Roderick Ranch Vineyard in the Anderson Valley, proves that this pioneering producer remains at the top of their game. This elegantly spills a range of concentrated yet lively dark and red fruits complicated by complex forest tones, intriguing perfumed notes, exotic spices, savory umami, and clean coastal earthiness. Although seemingly quite powerful this comes in at an extremely modest 12.9% ABV; easily proving that a wine doesn't need to be big or heavy to be packed full of flavor. Outstanding.